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Post by tIB on May 23, 2020 21:37:35 GMT
Is there a list of compatible tanks anywhere? I have an old accutronics that I used to use with a Doepfer a199 - I'd like to know that will work before I order the module...
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Lugia
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Ridiculously busy...ish.
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Post by Lugia on May 23, 2020 23:00:22 GMT
+1 on this. I also need tank specs...requisite input/output levels, impedances, etc. Gargantua has two SPRINGREVERB modules, but the aim here is to fit these with two different tanks...one short and high/metallic, the other much longer and more "splatty".
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Post by tIB on May 24, 2020 6:56:16 GMT
If I end up taking a punt on the module I'll update with whether mine works and it's specs. I'd rather know though, so if anyone has some info on the tank Robert is supplying with the module please share the part number so I can have a look. The module may have enough juice to handle other tanks too though?
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Post by arti on May 24, 2020 10:54:13 GMT
tIB there is a number both on the tank and inside on the springs: TAD RV-8BB3C1B also on the springs there is number 1521. There are also two small circuit boards on the In and Out bearing the RVB-1 symbol. I hope it helps
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Post by tIB on May 24, 2020 11:24:03 GMT
tIB there is a number both on the tank and inside on the springs: TAD RV-8BB3C1B also on the springs there is number 1521. There are also two small circuit boards on the In and Out bearing the RVB-1 symbol. I hope it helps Many thanks! |
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Post by tIB on May 24, 2020 11:36:04 GMT
Full specs here if anyone else needs: www.amplifiedparts.com/products/reverb-tank-mod-8bb3c1b-long-decay-3-springType: Short (3 Spring) tank Decay: long decay Input: 190 Ω Output: 2,575 Ω Connectors: Input insulated/output grounded Suspect the module won't have quite enough juice to drive a 10 ohm tank I have? I'll try it amd keep an eye on something similar to the specs above... |
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Lugia
Wiki Editors
Ridiculously busy...ish.
Posts: 556
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Post by Lugia on May 24, 2020 11:44:47 GMT
Input: 190 Ω Output: 2,575 Ω Connectors: Input insulated/output grounded Suspect the module won't have quite enough juice to drive a 10 ohm tank I have? Actually, it'd be the other way around. If you present a 10 ohm load for a circuit that's expecting 190 ohms, you could wind up overdriving the tank's transducer. It's not a problem as such; you'd just have to back the Input down a good bit. I'd recommend starting with the Input level at ZERO and then gradually bringing it up until you hit the right spot.
EDIT: OK, got my tanks ordered...after all, there was ENOUGH stuff being sent over from Murnau that I didn't think shipping those clunky things was a great idea. We already had four 20sp cabs coming, after all...plus the idea here was always to have the two springs have a different character.
SO, what I got was an 8BB2C1B and a 4BB3C1B. And here's the alphanumeric voodoo that YOU need to know...
What you're looking for here are tank specs that fit into the following scheme: xBBxC1B. The first number deals with the form factor...long tank, short tank, 2-spring, 3-spring. More a preference thing. But those NEXT TWO LETTERS are key, as they deal with the input/output impedances. Long story short, these need to read "BB" to match the module's I/O. This one's critical.
The next number is decay time. 1 is "short", 2 is "medium", 3 is "long". Again, preference dictates. But the following letter is ALSO critical, as it determines the connection configuration of the tank. The AE apparently likes to see insulated inputs and grounded outputs, so you have to look for a "C" designation here. And the last two bits have to do with there being a spring-lock and the installation orientation, so again, not as critical.
Ergo, whatever reverb tank you choose, it needs to follow this numbering scheme: xBBxCxx, with the designated letters being key to proper functionality with the "head" module.
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Post by tIB on May 24, 2020 13:35:54 GMT
Input: 190 Ω Output: 2,575 Ω Connectors: Input insulated/output grounded Suspect the module won't have quite enough juice to drive a 10 ohm tank I have? Actually, it'd be the other way around. If you present a 10 ohm load for a circuit that's expecting 190 ohms, you could wind up overdriving the tank's transducer. It's not a problem as such; you'd just have to back the Input down a good bit. I'd recommend starting with the Input level at ZERO and then gradually bringing it up until you hit the right spot.
Thanks for the info, the one I have is an accutronics 9AB3C1B so I'll give it a try as suggested... |
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