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Post by mrkoggs on Feb 23, 2021 20:06:23 GMT
Received my DIY Kit in the post the other day but I'm a bit confused about the pcb. Does anyone know if there is any documentation or tutorials anywhere that go into a bit more detail about how the board is laid out?
Thanks in advance!
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pt3r
Full Member
Drone not Drones
Posts: 188
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Post by pt3r on Feb 23, 2021 20:20:32 GMT
This picture shows how to orient the bottom pcbs when attaching the connector pins for the controller pcb. See how the righthand side read O1 O2 O3 O4. these are the pins that connect to the output connector strip on the controller board. This picture shows the pcb with the central VCC and GND rails that are connected to the GND and PCB pins on the left hand side.
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Post by admin on Feb 23, 2021 22:14:24 GMT
Received my DIY Kit in the post the other day but I'm a bit confused about the pcb. Does anyone know if there is any documentation or tutorials anywhere that go into a bit more detail about how the board is laid out? Thanks in advance! This is a great question, but unfortunately there is currently no documentation available for the DIY module. It's really made for more experienced DIYers like @p3tr who will just figure it out. Sometime in the future I would love to have a detailed guide on the wiki, similar to this: wiki.aemodular.com/pmwiki.php/AeDiy/AeDiy |
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Post by mrkoggs on Feb 24, 2021 7:00:38 GMT
Thanks guys. I guess I was thinking more about the connections on the controller board. Didn't really trust myself to track the etchings correctly haha. But I suppose I'm best off just going for it and being extra careful. Failure is the mother of success after all
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pt3r
Full Member
Drone not Drones
Posts: 188
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Post by pt3r on Feb 24, 2021 8:53:52 GMT
Thanks guys. I guess I was thinking more about the connections on the controller board. Didn't really trust myself to track the etchings correctly haha. But I suppose I'm best off just going for it and being extra careful. Failure is the mother of success after all No real mysteries here; the placing of the different components is quite straightforward. Just make sure to install the front panel and the spacers before you commit to the soldering of the leds and switches. As you can see on the picture these are not supposed to be flush with the pcb, but rather aligned to the front panel. And of course respect the polarity on the leds but that is a given:-).
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Post by mrkoggs on Mar 10, 2021 11:42:59 GMT
I've had a long hard look at the DIY panel and it's making a lot more sense to me. Now the biggest challenge is going to be getting everything to fit onto the protoboard! The only thing I'm still a bit puzzled about is the contact points labeled `CN1`,`CN2` etc. They just look to be connection points like any other as far as I can tell, so I'm a bit unsure as to what this labeling represents.
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pt3r
Full Member
Drone not Drones
Posts: 188
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Post by pt3r on Mar 10, 2021 16:23:07 GMT
I guess you are referring to the points on which you can populate signals from the bus cable to the 4 lowest connectors of the 'input' header?
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Post by mrkoggs on Mar 11, 2021 19:18:28 GMT
I guess you are referring to the points on which you can populate signals from the bus cable to the 4 lowest connectors of the 'input' header? After soldering on the connector headers it became clear that they where the labels for the headers themselves. By some devine miracle I managed to put the whole thing together and it actually works! I made a lofi sampler after reading keurslagerkurt 's thread on the isd1820 and looking into casperelectronics tutorials on this chip. ![]()  Thanks for your help guys, I think this will be the first of many. |
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Post by MikMo on Mar 12, 2021 7:21:59 GMT
Nothing as satisfying as your first DIY module.
Good work!
Mikael
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Post by keurslagerkurt on Mar 12, 2021 12:57:48 GMT
Looks fantastic mrkoggs !!! Also very happy that my post provided some inspiration  Did you use the 'modular synth' schematic from the casper electronics / BASTL website? Or did you make adjustments yourself? I've been toying around with this circuit too, trying to make it more stable and useable, so curious to hear how you did it. |
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Post by mrkoggs on Mar 13, 2021 21:05:47 GMT
Did you use the 'modular synth' schematic from the casper electronics / BASTL website? Or did you make adjustments yourself? I've been toying around with this circuit too, trying to make it more stable and useable, so curious to hear how you did it. Yeah I worked off the 'modular synth' schematic but simplified it a bit to make it fit and also because I mostly just used components I had lying about. After getting it in the case and playing around a bit I kind of wish I had added an output for the "end of playback" trigger, so might try and retrofit it if possible. That way I can use an envelope and a LPG to get rid of the annoying pop sound at the start of the loop |
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Post by mrkoggs on Mar 13, 2021 21:06:37 GMT
It would be good to be able to build something like that into the circuit though if you had three know how
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Post by keurslagerkurt on Mar 13, 2021 22:47:52 GMT
Well by some divine miracle I found this variation today, even tho it was posted almost a year ago on insta: http://instagr.am/p/B_CTd8ojT2j The three transistor circuit at the left should get rid of the 'pop'. I think you could also at a manual switch next to the trigger in. The L7805 just provides 5V, so that can be replaced by AE 5V. The transistor contraption should make the IC shut off for a very brief moment during the trigger (so you can't use gates), removing the pop. Haven't tested it myself tho. I think i'll try tweaking this circuit to my own taste and i'll def share it here if i manage to get fun results. However, it def makes the build quite a lot more complicated. Easiest way i found to get semi-rid of the pop is by just using a lowpass filter on the complete output. Tweaking the pitch also gave some sweet spots with barely a pop |
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Post by mrkoggs on Mar 15, 2021 20:31:18 GMT
Well by some divine miracle I found this variation today, even tho it was posted almost a year ago on insta: http://instagr.am/p/B_CTd8ojT2j The three transistor circuit at the left should get rid of the 'pop'. I think you could also at a manual switch next to the trigger in. The L7805 just provides 5V, so that can be replaced by AE 5V. The transistor contraption should make the IC shut off for a very brief moment during the trigger (so you can't use gates), removing the pop. Haven't tested it myself tho. I think i'll try tweaking this circuit to my own taste and i'll def share it here if i manage to get fun results. However, it def makes the build quite a lot more complicated. Easiest way i found to get semi-rid of the pop is by just using a lowpass filter on the complete output. Tweaking the pitch also gave some sweet spots with barely a pop Great find! Keep us posted on how you get on with it |
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